What is the Q factor on a bike?
Q factor is the overall width of an installed crankset, measured parallel to the bottom bracket shell from the outside of one pedal insertion point to the other. You can think of it like this: the larger the Q factor, the farther apart your feet will be.
Do I need a wider Q factor?
Q factor is roughly the same within specific categories of bike types i.e. road bikes, mountain bikes, fat bikes…etc.. The cranks need to be wide enough to clear the chainstay and a wider tire will, in turn, affect the chainstay width.
What is boost Q factor?
Chain line: The chain line is the distance between the centre line of the frame and the centre line of the chain ring (single-chainring configuration). Ideal Boost value 51-53 mm / Ideal non-Boost value 48-50 mm. … Q-factor: The Q-factor of a pedal is the distance between the two cranks (156 mm, 158 mm, 166 mm, 168 mm).
Is Q factor important?
A larger Q Factor (wider tread) will mean less cornering clearance (while pedaling) for the same bottom bracket height and crank arm length. A smaller Q Factor (narrower tread) is desirable on faired recumbent bicycles because then the fairing can also be narrower, hence smaller and lighter.
Can biking cause knee pain?
Most cycling knee pain results from a condition known as patellofemoral pain syndrome. This condition is commonly brought on by athletic overuse or high-impact use of the knees (among bikers, overuse is the more common culprit.) Malalignment of the patella (kneecap) can also cause or exacerbate issues.
Are fat bikes bad for knees?
With a wider pedaling base, your knees are more likely to drive inward towards the top-tube, leading to misalignment and injury down the road. … For reference, one of the reasons Eric Larsen had to abandon his Antarctica solo fat bike mission in 2012 is because his knees hurt so bad he could hardly pedal anymore.
What Q factor should I use?
Very roughly speaking, Q Factor tends to be about 150mm for a road bike and 170mm for a mountain bike.
Are wider pedals better?
However, bigger is not better for everybody! As the pedal gets wider, the likelihood of ground clearance concerns increases — you’ve got a greater chance of striking obstacles or dragging your pedal in the dirt around tight turns.
Is 52mm Chainline boost?
Chainline is the distance between the centerline of your frame and the average centerline of your chainring(s). … Unfortunately, if you were to remove these rings and install a standard narrow-wide ring the resulting 1X chainline would be about 52mm.
What’s the difference between boost and non-boost?
The real difference in these two is that the boost version has enough room for 2.8″ tires and the non-boost can only take 2.6″ tires.
Are boost cranks different?
The compatibility of the Boost 148 rear wheels and crankset.
To guarantee the same drivetrain performance, Boost compatible cranks are absolutely necessary, or directly mount the Boost-specific chainring Spider. … Standard cranks can’t be fitted with the Boost hubset – and vice versa.
How do I lower my Q factor?
The easiest way to reduce your Q factor is to install a shorter bottom bracket. There are many good, inexpensive square-taper BBs available in different lengths. You could pull the cranks off your present BB, measure them, and then order a shorter BB.
What is the best crank length?
Basically, Shimano thinks 170 to 175mm is the Goldilocks zone of crank length for most people and most bikes.
Are longer or shorter cranks better?
A shorter crank length for the shorter triathlete will give all the above benefits and more, as less leverage will encourage a higher cadence saving their legs for the run. A lower aero bar position is achievable as knee tracking at the top of the stroke is improved.